Guilin was the craziest vacation I have
ever been on. Every second was an adventure and filled with
activities. We would wake up early and go to bed late with no moments
of boredom at all!
Friday morning Rick, Sarah and I caught
the 8:30 bus to Zhenjiang. We got there with enough time to have some
lunch and then go to KFC to order ice cream and a Pepsi to try and
satisfy a root beer float craving. It worked actually! We found out
our train to Shanghai had been delayed almost 2 hours and we probably
wouldn't be on time to catch our train to Guilin, which was bad. We
ended up having to exchange tickets and take a G train to Shanghai
and race to the subway to get to Shanghai Nan (Nan is south) Station
grab a sandwich from KFC and race onto the train where we would hang
out for the next 20 hours. We ended up being in compartments right
next to each other which was really nice. All three of us had bought
hard top bunks. The hard part is nothing new and I really didn't
think it was hard at all. The top part is where I started rethinking
things. There were six bunks in one compartment, three on one wall
three on the other wall. The bottom bunk you could sit up in and most
people used it as a couch during the daytime. The middle you could
sit up in as well, just not as comfortably. The top...yeah you'd have
to be a midget to sit up in that one. I didn't spend very much time
up there. Basically I just slept there, it was a little too
confining. Our train left at 4:30 and got in on Saturday at around
noon. So we stayed up talking until 9:30 (lights go out at 10:00)
went to bed woke up and had only a few more hours on the train before
we arrived in Guilin. All in all it wasn't too bad of a ride, I was
expecting something really horrible.
Josh was going to Guilin with us as
well but decided he wanted to get there earlier so he was taking a
different train to Guilin. It was a good plan in theory but didn't
work at all. He ended up being told the wrong bus to get on and the
driver dropped him off somewhere random and had someone pick him up
and take him to Zhenjiang. Long story short he missed his train to
Guilin. He tried to get a ticket on our train but it was full and he
ended up getting a ticket on a K train (We were on a T train) that
left not long after us. But it gets even better. They didn't have any
sleepers or seats so he stood for the entire trip and the K train
took a couple hours longer than the T train. Then to top his day off
he had no idea where we were staying and none of our phones worked in
Guilin so he had no idea how to get a hold of us. Luckily for him the
three of us were on top of things. As soon as we got off the train we
checked to see what time his train got in. We decided we had enough
time to try and find our hostel before his train got in. We thought
we had good enough instructions to get there but they weren't good at
all. Three girls took pity on us and helped us find our hostel. We
were so worried about missing Josh that we sent Rick back to the
train station to watch for him. Sarah and I found the hostel thanks
to our new friends and made it back to the train station in plenty of
time to find Josh. During the wait we planned out the best places for
everyone to stand to make sure we didn't have any chance of missing
Josh. We decided that I would stand right in front of the gate
because I stand out the most, Sarah would be to the left in front of
the other gate that no one else was using. Rick would be standing at
the top of some stairs over looking the entrance so if we missed Josh
he could yell or run after him. All of our planning was not necessary
it turns out. Josh saw me and almost burst into tears. He was so
happy to see us that he insisted on a group hug. After Josh had
gathered control of himself we all headed to our hostel to check in
and get settled before going out. Our hostel was right next to the Li
River and there were some amazing things to see there. We ended up
spending all night taking pictures there and got some really awesome
ones. It was all so beautiful!
Sunday morning we were taking a river
cruise along the Li River to Yangshuo. That was absolutely beautiful
as well! It reminded all of us of Utah and then we all realized how
desperate we were for something familiar because it wasn't really
like Utah at all. We took a Chinese cruise so everything was in
Chinese. One guy that we made friends with spoke a little English and
would translate to tell us what sights we were passing at that time.
At one point we pass a rock and we all started yelling “The cliffs
of insanity!” I have no doubt that the Chinese people on the cruise
were a little concerned about the white people. When we first got on
the boat a girl ripped our tickets and then helped us find our seats.
During the ride the girl came and asked for the part she ripped off
our tickets. We kept trying to tell her that she'd already ripped
them off and that we didn't have them anymore. Then at the end Josh
pulled out his ticket and realized he hadn't had his ticket ripped.
The girl got super excited and looked like she was about to burst
into tears of joy when she finally ripped his ticket. I was so
grateful that my mom had sent me a package that I got right before I
left with sunscreen because we used a ton of it on this trip. We all
got a little pink but not nearly as bad as it might have been without
sunscreen. We probably used about half the bottle this trip.
When we got off the boat we went along
the dock to an empty spot to take some pictures. We got there and
Sarah said “Oh good. We won't be bothered here.” It wasn't even
half a second after she said this that we heard in a thick Chinese
accent “Hello! Where are you from?” We busted up laughing and
talked to this boy for a minute before running for it.
While in Yangshuo someone decided that
we needed to try some of the bricks of tofu they were selling on the
streets. They had it on a grill thingy and had put seasonings on it.
It was super spicy and nasty and all around awful. I was not thrilled
with the person that made the decision to eat it, although I can't
remember who it was now.
After checking into our hostel we hit
the streets of Yangshuo for some serious shopping. Yangshuo was the
best place for shopping that I'd ever been. There was also some
serious bargaining going on. I was really worried about the
bargaining bit but it came quite naturally to me. I was able to get
the price I wanted for everything but one item, but even that item
I'd gotten way down. Bargaining worked like this every time: You
would show any sort of interest in the stall and the person at the
stall would attack you and say “You like? Handmade! For you very
cheap!” Then you would ask how much. Even if you don't really want
it (They will chase you if you don't follow these steps. If you don't
want it you say a ridiculous price they get mad and let you leave).
You will then proceed to laugh at the price they say and tell them
no. They will then hand you either the pad of paper or the calculator
they are using to show you the price and say “You say price!”
After saying your price they gasp do this funny eye thing and exclaim
“No money! No money!” and act really upset. They say another
lower price and you laugh again and either stick to your original
price or go up a little bit. This passing goes on for quite some time
until one of you budges. My favorite is when they don't come down to
your price so you start walking away and they yell “Okay okay!
Fine!” and act like you insulted them and their ancestors and they
got cheated out of something but in reality you are still getting
ripped off. One little old lady would not budge and I wasn't going
any higher than 50 yuan. She came down to 52 yuan but I still wasn't
moving. Then she started yelling at me and pointing at her throat
saying “Tumor! Tumor!” I really don't think the extra 2 yuan
would go anywhere to helping even if she really did have a tumor. She
finally came down to 50 but she was sure ticked. We avoided her stall
from then on. Sarah showed a little interest in these red things that
you would put on your rear view mirror in a car. Neither Rick or her
really wanted it but once you show any interest you just can't escape
them. The lady named the price 120 yuan. We all started laughing
pretty good at that one and Sarah said she'd only pay 5 for that.
After lots of arguing Sarah purchased the stupid thing for 6 yuan. We
put in on their backpack as a trophy and a little reminder that you
can always get your price. The purchase I'm most excited about is a
dress that I bought. During training one of the girls that was
teaching wore this super cute dress that I coveted throughout
training. I found it at a store and couldn't resist buying it. It's
amazing! They also had some cotton candy in Yangshuo. It was kind of
a maple syrup flavor but super good none the less.
We called it a fairly early night that
night because the guy at our hostel was taking us to hike a peak at 5
the next morning. We had asked the hostel guy how to get to the peak
and he told us that he knew a way to sneak us in so we wouldn't have
to pay. He reassured us that his government was a if you don't get
caught you won't get in trouble. Free sounded amazing to us so we
decided to go for it.
The next morning when we woke up to go
to the hike we were kind of rethinking it but there were people
waiting so we got up. During the trip whenever we had to get up early
or something looked like it required more energy then we possessed
we'd say “Adventure is out there!” and do it. It actually worked
quite well. We went with a group of other English teachers that were
ironically from Utah as well. The hike was really difficult. It was
straight up, no joke. We were all breathing super heavy and dripping
sweat. By the time we finally reached the top we all collapsed on the
ground. We had also left that early to see the sun rise but it was
too cloudy so we didn't see that. That was a bummer but okay because
the view from the top was beautiful anyway. Hiking back down was a
joke. I thought I was going to die a couple of times and did end up
falling once. I bruised my poor little buttock. One time I slipped
and was going down but a tree branch saved my life. I was so sore and
tired that I hugged the branch enthusiastically for saving my life.
After the hike the four of us rented
mountain bikes from our hostel to bike to Moon Water Caves. It was a
beautiful bike ride right in between huge Chinese style mountains and
the Yuyong River next to the road. The caves were amazing too. We had
to wear hard hats and at first I thought it was kind of stupid but I
took my head out on so many low spots that by the end I wanted to hug
my hard hat enthusiastically as well. To get into the cave we had to
take a little raft through the cave first. It felt very Phantom of
the Opera to me. Part of the cave was going to a mud pond and getting
really muddy and then going to a hot spring and getting not so dirty.
There were three levels of springs. The first level all we did was
dip our toes in because it was so hot, the second one was occupied by
a Chinese couple (the springs weren't very big) so we didn't really
try that one. The last one was just the perfect amount of warm. We
finished Monday up with some shopping and then caught a bus back to
Guilin.
They weren't selling bus tickets to
Guilin because so many people were going there. There was just a huge
line that you stood in and when a bus came you pushed and shoved to
get on. So it wasn't really a surprise when I got on the bus and
realized that my camera was no longer in my front pant pocket. The
most ironic part of me being pick pocketed was that during Hong Kong
and Shenzhen I was the most paranoid about it. I was the one cradling
my bag protectively and everyone made fun of me for it. We got back
to our hostel and I sat on the bed moping and eating chocolate that
Sarah provided when Josh came into our room and chucked strawberry
Oreo s (My favorite flavor. We NEED these in the US) and milk juice
at me and said “I'm sorry about your loss.” It was super sweet of
him and I was really grateful. Unfortunately I didn't seem very
grateful because the milk juice took out my knee and it was painful.
We slept in for a little bit the next
morning because we were just planning on going to the Dragon Backbone
Rice Terraces. It was about a 45 minute bus ride to the bus station
and then a 3 hour bus ride after that to the Terraces. During the bus
ride to the terraces the bus stopped and everyone got off. We then
proceeded to climb into the forest around a giant rock slide blocking
the path. As we were trying to figure out how to get down rocks
started falling and we all screamed and just ran down our only goal
to get as far from the rock slide as possible. The best was the old
ladies with huge bags across their shoulders booking it towards the
buses. We rode the bus for a little while longer before it pulled
over and they started speaking in Chinese to us and gesturing
outside. One person who knew a little English said “Get off bus.”
So we did. I showed my ticket to the bus attendant just to double
check we were in the right place and she nodded and herded us off the
bus. There was not a single rice terrace in sight except for the one
random billboard that had a picture of it. The billboard was
basically the only thing around except for Chinese people trying to
sell us hotel rooms. Across the street there was a white guy who came
and explained the situation to us. Apparently the rice terraces are
not just a day trip, which explained everyone trying to sell us hotel
rooms. It was about 3:00 and the last bus to Guilin was at 4:00 which
was an even bigger problem because it was another 1 to 2 hours to the
terraces. He got there and was waiting for a bus back to Guilin (Side
note: he was from New York). We stood there trying to decide what to
do when two other white people showed up looking just as confused as
all the other white people here and they were carrying around the
Lonely Planet travel guide (They were from Spain). The seven of us
put our heads together and decided to bribe off one of the mini vans
to take us to the terraces and then drive us to Guilin. It was 420
yuan total which was 60 a person and we all thought that was a great
deal and hopped into the mini van to go to the terraces. They were
amazing and we were all so glad we went! I had a run in with a horse
while we were there and made friends with a cute little pig. I
purposely did not eat pork there after that.
We got back to Guilin around 9 and we
were starving. We all wanted Chinese food so badly so we found a
little restaurant and ordered food. They'd brought out a couple of
dishes when something really traumatic happened. Our cute, tiny,
young waitress went over to the fish tank that was by our table. Rick
and Sarah's backs were turned to it but Josh and I were facing it so
we had a perfect view when she caught a fish in the net and began
beating it senseless against the floor right by our table. I guess
Josh and my face was priceless because Rick and Sarah started
laughing hysterically, they were smart enough not to turn around and
look. It just got worse after that. I guess the fish just wasn't dead
enough so the waitress grabbed the fish with her bare hands and
continued beating it against the ground. Every time we passed a
picture of a fish or a tank of fish Josh started groaning, he's
vegetarian so it really bothered him. We wanted to hike one last peak
before heading home the next day and the hostel had told us that we
if got to a certain peak before 7 we could get in for free. We were
going to call it an early night but at 12:30 we realized just how
late it was and went to bed exhausted.
Because of the holiday the peak opened
at 6 so we had to pay but we decided it was worth it. Maps in China
really stink so we got super lost and ended up deciding to climb up
some rocks to the top. Rock climbing isn't really my thing so I was
super scared but lack of sleep made me decide to do it. The view was
worth climbing up and we saw that we had made the right decision
because we were at the highest peak. We met some nice Chinese people
who used us to practice their English (You get used to that pretty
quickly) and they were really worried about us getting down. For some
reason they think white people are strong but fragile and worry more
about us. We made the decision to not go with them and stress them
out as we got down the mountain. As we were heading down we saw a
rainstorm on its way and started hurrying. The rainstorm was quicker
than us though so we got caught in it on the way down. Not only we
were soaked but the rocks were too which made them more slippery. I
was so scared but we made it to the bottom by some miracle where it
immediately stopped raining.
We walked around the park some more and
found some monkeys in trees. We all thought they were cute and fed
them some peanuts that some nice Chinese people provided for us.
Sarah wanted a picture next to a monkey eating a banana but he kept
hissing at her. She eventually got the picture but she's super far
from the monkey and you can tell she's a little worried about being
so close to it. We got up so early we didn't have time for breakfast
so I pulled out a piece of raisin bread I had in my backpack. This
mean monkey decided it was tired of bananas and that raisin bread
sounded really quite tasty. It came to me and looked at the bread. It
stood on its hind legs which somehow made it more intimidating. It
also had a bad eye which made it look deranged and scarier. Thinking
I was so smart I ripped off a corner and threw it far away from me.
The monkey glanced over at the piece I'd thrown and then looked back
at me with an expression that said “Do you think I'm stupid?” I
don't really remember what happened after that but Rick, Sarah and
Josh said I started screaming...I do remember that I quickly just
chucked the entire piece of bread at the monkey, who grabbed it and
ran away from me. As soon as the threat was gone I got really angry.
I was hungry and that stupid monkey stole my bread! After the loss of
my bread I was sick of monkeys and ready to move on. We went and saw
camel rock and then decided to head home.
China is a very slippery place. Even
dry. It was very wet because of all the rain which made it even more
slippery. I had already slipped on stairs that day but because of my
mad ninja skills I caught myself on the step above the step my poor
already bruised bum would have fallen and avoided disaster. On the
walk back to our hostel we ran into the people we met at the top of
the peak and they were happy to see that we made it safely down. We
decided to walk along the river on the way back to the hostel and
that's where tragedy struck. We were walking down the stairs to get
to the river path when Sarah slipped and fell down quite a few
stairs. She started screaming and my mind went blank. I had no idea
what to do, especially since we don't really know a ton of Chinese.
Rick and I made eye contact and I said “What do we do?!” He
thought for half a second and then starts yelling in Chinese and I
started yelling “What are you saying?!” Turns out he was yelling
the word for phone. We had quite a crowd around us watching and one
of them pulled out a phone and started calling for help we assumed.
Our friends from the mountain found us and did a little translating
to let us know that someone indeed did call the hospital and an
ambulance was coming. Then one of them noticed the gash in my leg
from climbing down the mountain and got really concerned. I was kind
of thinking “Really? That's what you're concerned about right now?”
but I did think it was sweet she was concerned. We heard the
ambulance before we saw it and the crowd ran over to the side of the
road to call it over. Being white has it advantages in China. We were
worried about how to communicate with the doctor when he came over
but the first words out of his mouth was “What's wrong?” and we
all exclaimed “That was English!” You'd be surprised how
necessary it is for us to tell each other when someone is speaking
English, often we don't catch it for a few minutes. He felt Sarah's
spine to make sure he couldn't feel anything obviously wrong. Rick
shooed the crowd away to give Sarah some privacy and they all groaned
but left. Rick and Sarah went to the hospital to get an x-ray and
Josh and I were left standing there wondering what on earth we were
supposed to do. We had to be checked out of the hostel by noon so we
went and packed everything up. We sat and stared at nothing for a
while too scared to do anything and finally decided we had to get out
or we'd go crazy. We ran into Rick and Sarah on our little jaunt and
were so relieved to find that nothing was wrong and everything was
fine. Sarah was really sore so we didn't do anything super
adventurous and caught our train to Shanghai that night with no
problems.
Nothing exciting happened on our
travels home. We made it back to Zhenjiang Thursday night and had to
catch a taxi to Yangzhong. Our taxi driver spoke very little English
but when we told him we were American he said Obama and Bin Laden and
then made a gun with his hand said “Pew, pew” and said very good
in Chinese. Apparently he approves. Then we saw a taxi next to us at
a red light and the taxi driver was able to communicate that this
taxi was also going to Yangzhong. Still not sure how he knew that. So
we started chanting go in Chinese and fast and the race began. I
think we won.
We made it home safe and sound.
Everyone was sore and exhausted with wallets containing a lot less
money than we began with. It was so much fun and so beautiful!
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